We went through the narrow alleyways and happened on the Ghalib Academy. I'd been looking for it, but had decided I'd wander around and hope to find it, rather than actually ask someone for directions. We went in and I was immediately shocked with how nonchalant everyone was. It was as if they didn't care at all about Mirza-sahab (which they probably didn't), and were just there to earn some money.
Hue mar ke hum jo rusvaa hue kyon na garq-e-darya,
Na kabhi janaaza uthtaa, na kahin mazaar hota.
Immediately upon entering the Ghalib Academy, I was greeted by a stack of books - arranged helter-skelter of course - on a wide variety of subjects. A book of ghazals by Qateel Shifai caught my eye, and I started going through the book, in the hope of finding the words to a beautiful ghazal sang by Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan.
Hum apni shaam ko jab nazar-e-jaam karte hain,
Adab se hum ko sitaarein salaam karte hain.
As I was flipping through the book, a random guy came up to me and asked me what I was looking for. I told him that I was looking for a Qateel ghazal. He responded that he had no idea what I was talking about and that I should buy the Kulliat-e-Iqbal. My entire exchange with him weirded me out. He tried forcing me to buy an English translation, to which I responded that I knew Urdu and how to read the language. He either didn't believe me, or really wanted me to buy the English version, and kept on repeating that I should buy it. To which I, in a frustrated manner, responded that I already had the Urdu Kulliat-e-Iqbal and wasn't going to buy the English version. I then demanded to see the other books, and was taken first to the library (which was full of old Muslim men, who stared in shock when a girl walked into the library) and then to the little museum on the top floor.
The museum was interesting enough. There were some curios from Ghalib's lifetime, paintings of famous poets, paintings of Ghalib, some of his letters, stuff like that. It also looked as if it was kept shut most of the time. It was disappointing to say the list. Annoyed, I got out of there as soon as I could, and went looking for his mazaar.
NB: I was in Delhi on the 13/14th of July.
4 comments:
Yes, I have found top my peril that that is the general experience in such places.
I have that (what I thought was the only) photograph of Ghalib. I believe there are 2, that is a very clear version you have posted compared to mine. Have you read his letter about suffering in the heat whilst having to succumb to the demand of having a photograph taken?
I have the Kulliyat e Iqbal in Urdu too but have only read a little of it. I have it on pdf and that is the reason.
You ought to write about your visit to Ghalib's tomb, what were your feelings?
I share your feelings after observing the mazaar area. I went there sometime in 2008 and was appalled by the ignorance of people for the great poet's final abode. And talking about the bookshop - I wish I knew how to read Urdu, would have picked up something on Ghalib.
Hi, its ratnakar tripathi from India. Though only one common interest made me to visit your blog, tha you too like hindi movie "shatranj ke khiladee" but it also surprised me that you have such deep interest in Urdu.
thanks
Aadab..Delhi in 18 hrs ka dusra hissa kab manzare aam par aaega?
Abdul Hai
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